Hannah Goldfield, the New Yorkerโ€™s food critic, answers the question.

For breakfast, head to the original location of Russ & Daughters, for a bagel sandwich. If you want to expand your horizons, get the Super Heebsterโ€”whitefish and baked-salmon salad with horseradish-dill cream cheese and wasabi flying-fish roe. If youโ€™re feeling traditional, go for good olโ€™ cream cheese and Gaspe Nova smoked salmon. On an everything bagel, of course! Eat it on the street.

More at the New Yorker (paywall)